What the job involves
A full bathroom refit means taking out the existing suite and putting in a new one. A typical job covers stripping out the bath, toilet, basin and any shower, removing old tiles and flooring, and dealing with whatever is underneath. The fitter then makes good the walls and floor, adjusts the plumbing and electrics where needed, and installs the new sanitaryware, shower, tiling, flooring, lighting and ventilation.
The order matters. Strip-out comes first, then first-fix plumbing and electrics, then boarding and waterproofing, then tiling, then second fix, which is fitting the sanitaryware, taps, screens and accessories. Decorating and sealing finish the job. A good fitter plans this sequence before starting so materials arrive when they are needed and nothing is sealed in before it has been tested.
The price on this page reflects a supply and fit job. Check each quote to see exactly who is buying the bathroom products, because that changes the comparison a great deal.
What affects the price
- Size of the room. A larger bathroom needs more tiles, more flooring and more labour. A small room is not always cheap, though, because tight spaces slow the work down.
- Layout changes. Replacing like for like is the simplest route. Moving the toilet, basin or shower to a different wall means new pipework, new waste runs and often work under the floor, all of which add time and materials.
- Quality of the suite and fittings. Basic ranges and premium brands can differ enormously. Wall-hung toilets with concealed cisterns, freestanding baths, brassware and heated towel rails all push the cost up.
- Shower type. A simple bath with a shower over is usually less involved than a walk-in wet area with a tray former, a glass screen and a thermostatic mixer. Electric showers, mixer showers and pumped systems each need different supply work.
- Tiling. Floor-to-ceiling tiling takes far longer than tiling splash areas only. Large-format tiles, patterns, mosaics and natural stone need more skill and more cutting.
- Condition of the room once it is opened up. Rotten floorboards, damp walls, old lead or steel pipework and uneven surfaces are common surprises. Putting them right adds cost, and nobody can price them fully until the old bathroom is out.
- Electrical work. New lighting, extractor fans, shaver sockets or underfloor heating mean electrical work. Bathrooms have particular safety rules, and some electrical work needs certification or building regulations sign-off.
- Heating and gas. If a radiator, boiler or any gas pipework is touched, a Gas Safe registered engineer must do that part.
- Access and parking. Top-floor flats with no lift, narrow stairs or no nearby parking make waste removal and deliveries slower.
- Region and the fitter's workload. Labour rates vary across the UK, and a busy, well-regarded fitter will usually cost more than one with gaps in their diary.
- Waste removal and skip hire. Old cast-iron baths, tiles and plaster are heavy, and disposal is a real cost.
Ways to keep the cost down
- Keep the layout. Leaving the toilet, basin and bath or shower where they are is the biggest saving you can make.
- Choose mid-range products from a good supplier. Reliable, well-reviewed fittings do not need to be top of the range. Cheap taps and cisterns that fail early cost more in the long run.
- Tile sensibly. Tile the wet areas fully and paint the rest with a moisture-resistant paint. Standard-size tiles in a plain pattern are quicker to lay.
- Buy your own products only if you are organised. It can save money, but you take on the risk of wrong sizes, missing parts and delays. Some fitters will not guarantee products they did not supply.
- Get the decision-making done early. Changing your mind mid-job leads to extra charges and delays.
- Do the simple jobs yourself. Clearing the room, removing accessories or painting at the end can save labour, provided you agree it in advance.
- Get several quotes on the same specification. Give each fitter the same written list so you are comparing like with like.
- Be flexible on timing. Some fitters offer better availability or terms outside busy periods.
What should be included in a quote
A proper quote is itemised and in writing. Look for the following:
- [ ] Full address and a clear description of the work
- [ ] Strip-out and disposal of old suite, tiles, flooring and waste
- [ ] Who supplies each item: suite, taps, shower, screen, tiles, adhesive, grout, flooring
- [ ] Product names or a clear allowance for anything not yet chosen
- [ ] Plumbing alterations, including new pipework, waste and valves
- [ ] Electrical work, and who carries it out and certifies it
- [ ] Boarding, waterproofing or tanking where needed
- [ ] Tiling area and layout, and flooring type
- [ ] Ventilation, such as an extractor fan
- [ ] Plastering, making good and decorating, or a clear note that they are excluded
- [ ] Radiator or towel rail removal and refitting
- [ ] How hidden problems such as rot or damp will be priced if found
- [ ] Start date, expected duration and payment schedule
- [ ] VAT status, insurance and guarantee details
- [ ] Who handles any building regulations notification
Questions to ask a bathroom fitter
- Can I see photos or speak to recent customers whose jobs were similar to mine?
- Do you carry out all the work yourself, or do you bring in a plumber, electrician or tiler?
- Are the people doing the gas or electrical work suitably registered?
- What happens if you find rot, damp or a problem with the pipework?
- Is the price fixed, or can it change? What would trigger a change?
- How much deposit do you need, and when are stage payments due?
- What guarantee do you give on workmanship, and how do I claim on it?
- Will you protect floors and the route through my house?
- What will you do about water and toilet access while the work is going on?
- Who orders the products, and what happens if something arrives damaged or late?
How long it takes and what to expect
A straightforward like-for-like refit usually takes days rather than weeks. Moving fittings, extensive tiling, structural repairs or a wet room will stretch that. Drying times for adhesive, grout, screed or waterproofing membranes cannot be rushed, so allow for gaps in the work.
Expect noise and dust in the first stage, and expect water to be off at times. If this is your only bathroom, ask whether you will have a working toilet in the evenings, and plan an alternative for washing. Deliveries should be checked on arrival, and it is worth checking that the main fittings are on site before strip-out begins.
At the end, run the taps and shower, flush the toilet, and check under the bath and basin for drips. Look at silicone lines, tile alignment and grout finish. Keep any certificates, product guarantees and manuals together. Do not release the final payment until you are satisfied.
Signs a quote is too cheap or too expensive
Too cheap
- It is a single figure with no breakdown.
- Products are not named, or the allowance looks unrealistic for the quality you want.
- Strip-out, waste removal, waterproofing or making good are missing.
- The fitter asks for a large payment upfront, or only wants cash with no paperwork.
- They are vague about who will do electrical or gas work.
- The price is far below every other quote. Something has been left out, or corners will be cut.
Too expensive
- The quote lumps in large allowances without explanation.
- Products are priced well above what the same items cost from common suppliers.
- The labour hours do not match the scale of the job.
- A high contingency is included with no explanation.
- The fitter is unwilling to explain or adjust the specification.
Compare the prices on this page with your own quote, but remember that a price only means something when the scope is the same. If a quote sits well above or below what local homeowners paid, ask the fitter to explain why before you decide.