What the job involves
A block paved driveway is a built-up surface, not just bricks laid on soil. Most of the cost and most of the quality sit below the blocks, where you can't see them once the job is done.
The usual sequence is:
- Setting out and levels. The installer marks the area and works out the falls, so rainwater runs away from the house and doesn't pool. This matters more than most people realise.
- Excavation. The existing surface (turf, old concrete, tarmac or gravel) is dug out to the depth needed for the sub-base, bedding layer and blocks. The spoil is loaded and taken away.
- Edge restraints. Kerbs or edging are bedded in concrete around the perimeter. Without them the blocks slowly spread and the surface loosens.
- Sub-base. Crushed stone is laid in layers and compacted with a plate compactor. A driveway that takes cars needs a properly compacted, adequate depth of sub-base. Soft ground may need extra depth or a membrane.
- Bedding layer. A level layer of sharp sand or grit is screeded to a consistent thickness.
- Laying the blocks. Blocks are laid in the chosen pattern, cut to fit at the edges, then compacted into the bed.
- Jointing. Kiln-dried sand is brushed into the joints and the surface is compacted again. Some installers use a polymeric sand that hardens to resist weeds and washout.
Drainage, a dropped kerb, new gates or lighting are sometimes part of the same project, but they are separate items and should be listed separately.
What affects the price
Two drives that look similar can cost very different amounts. These are the things that move the price most:
- Area. More square metres means more blocks, more stone, more sand and more labour. Cost per square metre often falls slightly on larger drives, because setup and delivery are spread further.
- Existing surface. Breaking out thick concrete or old tarmac takes more time and plant than stripping turf. Heavy waste also costs more to dispose of.
- Depth of excavation. Soft, clay or made-up ground may need a deeper or reinforced sub-base. A drive that is already near the right level needs less digging and less stone.
- Choice of block. Concrete blocks are generally cheaper than clay or natural stone. Thickness, colour, finish and brand all make a difference. Cheap blocks can be thinner, with a less even colour.
- Pattern and cutting. A simple stretcher bond is quicker than herringbone, and curves, circles, borders and contrasting colours all add cutting time and waste.
- Drainage. If rainwater can't soak into a lawn or border, you may need a soakaway, channel drains or a permeable construction. Each adds materials and labour.
- Access. If a digger and lorry can't get onto the site, work is done by hand and materials are barrowed in. That takes much longer.
- Levels and retaining work. Steep slopes, steps or walls to hold back soil add significant work.
- Edges and kerbs. More edging, or a more decorative edge, costs more. Dropping the kerb at the pavement is a separate job that involves the council.
- Location and timing. Labour rates vary by region. Installers who are busy in good weather may price higher than in quieter months.
Ways to keep the cost down
- Keep the design simple. A plain pattern with few cuts saves labour and wasted blocks.
- Reduce the area. A drive sized for the cars you actually have costs less than one that covers the whole frontage.
- Choose a mid-range block. A reputable concrete block usually looks good for years. Spend on the base before you spend on the surface.
- Do the clearing yourself. If it is safe and sensible, you could remove plants, a shed or loose gravel before the team arrives. Agree this in writing so the quote reflects it.
- Make access easy. Clear the site and arrange parking elsewhere so work isn't delayed.
- Get like-for-like quotes. Give each installer the same spec so you compare the same job and not different depths of sub-base.
- Never cut the sub-base. Savings made below the surface are what lead to sinking, rutting and a repaired drive in a few years.
- Be flexible on timing. Some installers have gaps in their schedule and may be happy to fill them.
What should be included in a quote
A good quote is itemised and specific. Check that it covers:
- [ ] The total area and a simple plan or sketch of the layout
- [ ] Removal of the existing surface and disposal of spoil and waste
- [ ] Excavation depth and the type and depth of sub-base
- [ ] Any geotextile membrane, where the ground needs it
- [ ] Edge restraints and how they are fixed
- [ ] Bedding layer material
- [ ] The make, type, colour and thickness of the blocks, and the pattern
- [ ] Jointing sand type and compaction
- [ ] Drainage arrangements, including falls and any channels or soakaways
- [ ] Any work to the dropped kerb, and who applies to the council
- [ ] Making good around the edges, such as lawns, walls and flower beds
- [ ] VAT, if charged, and whether materials are included
- [ ] Payment terms, with no large payment demanded up front
- [ ] Start date, expected duration and who will be on site
- [ ] Guarantee terms and insurance, in writing
Questions to ask a driveway installer
- What depth of sub-base will you use, and why? The answer should reflect your ground and how the drive will be used.
- How will the water drain? Look for a clear answer. A vague one is a warning.
- Do I need planning permission? Paving a front garden with a non-porous surface that drains to the road, rather than to a lawn or border, can need it. A good installer will raise this themselves.
- Who deals with the dropped kerb? If you need to cross the pavement, the council must approve it and usually requires approved contractors for that part.
- Can I see recent jobs, ideally a few years old? Older work shows how the drive has settled.
- Are you insured? Ask for public liability cover and confirmation that it is current.
- What happens if the surface sinks? Ask about the guarantee and how it works in practice.
- How will you protect the house, drains and neighbours' access? Drain covers and services need care.
- Will you leave spare blocks? Keep a few for future repairs, as colours change between batches.
How long it takes and what to expect
An average single-width or double drive normally takes several days, and a large or complicated one can take longer. Bad weather, hard ground or extra drainage work can add time.
Expect noise, dust and deliveries on the first days, with a digger, a skip or lorry, and a plate compactor. You will not be able to use the drive during the work and for a short time afterwards. Ask the installer when you can walk on it and when a car can go back on.
The finished surface will look neat but still needs bedding in. Minor settling of the sand in the joints is normal, and you may be told to top up the jointing sand after a few weeks. Weeds can appear in the joints eventually, and sealing is optional. If you seal, check that the product suits your blocks and that it allows water to drain.
Signs a quote is too cheap or too expensive
Possible signs of a quote that is too cheap:
- No itemised breakdown, or a vague description such as "block pave drive"
- Little or no mention of sub-base depth, edging or drainage
- A pushy offer for cash only, or a large deposit
- Blocks described only as "standard" or "block paving"
- A start date of tomorrow, or a pressure tactic of "leftover materials from another job"
- No address, no insurance details and no paperwork
A price well below the others usually means a thin sub-base, skipped edging or poor drainage. The failure shows up later, not on day one.
Possible signs of a quote that is too expensive:
- Premium blocks or complex patterns that you didn't ask for
- Large allowances for waste or extras without explanation
- Charges that duplicate each other, such as the same skip or the same labour listed twice
- A refusal to explain how the price was reached
If one quote is much higher than the others, ask why. It may reflect a deeper base or better materials, or it may just be padding. Use the prices on this page to see what other homeowners in your area actually paid, then compare your quote item by item.