How much does kitchen fitting cost?

What the job involves

Kitchen fitting is the labour of installing a kitchen you have already bought. A fitter assembles and installs the base and wall units, hangs doors, fits the worktops, and usually fits the sink, tap and appliances. They then finish with trims such as plinths, cornice, pelmets and end panels. The units and worktops themselves are not part of the fitting cost, and neither are the appliances.

The work is more than putting boxes against a wall. A good fitter checks the room first. They find the highest point of the floor, set a level line for the units, and scribe cabinets to walls that are rarely straight. Worktop cutting is the most skilled part, especially joints, sink cut-outs and hob cut-outs. A mistake on a worktop is expensive to put right.

Many fitters also offer related work, but it is often priced separately: removing the old kitchen, plumbing, electrical work, plastering, tiling and flooring. Check whether you are comparing like with like. A quote for fitting only is not comparable with one that includes strip-out and first-fix plumbing and electrics.

What affects the price

• Size and number of units. More cabinets mean more assembly, positioning and door adjustment. A large kitchen with tall units and corner carousels takes longer than a small galley layout.
• Flat-pack or pre-assembled. Flat-pack units need building on site, which adds labour. Rigid, pre-built units are quicker to install, though you usually pay more for the units themselves.
• Worktop material. Laminate and timber can be cut and joined by a good fitter on site. Stone, quartz and solid surface are normally templated and fitted by the supplier or a specialist, so the fitter's role is smaller but may include careful preparation. Timber needs sealing and care in cutting, which adds time.
• Layout complexity. Islands, peninsulas, L-shaped or U-shaped runs, and awkward corners all add time. So do boxed-in pipes and chimney breasts.
• Condition of the room. Uneven walls, sloping floors, or old plaster that crumbles under fixings mean extra time for packing, levelling and making good.
• Removal of the old kitchen. Taking out existing units, disconnecting services and disposing of waste adds labour, and often a skip or tip visit.
• Appliances and integration. Integrated appliances need door fronts fitted accurately and ventilation considered. Built-in ovens, extractors and boiler housings take more time than freestanding appliances.
• Plumbing, gas and electrics. A fitter may do simple connections for a sink, dishwasher or washing machine. Gas work must be done by a Gas Safe registered engineer. New circuits or certain electrical alterations in a kitchen come under Part P of the Building Regulations, so a registered electrician or building control sign-off may be needed. Bringing in other trades adds to the total.
• Access and location. Carrying units up several flights of stairs, limited parking, or a long walk from the van to the kitchen all add time.
• Local demand. Good fitters in busy areas are often booked well ahead, and prices reflect that. The prices on this page show what local homeowners actually paid.

Ways to keep the cost down

• Choose a straightforward layout. Keeping sinks, cooker and appliances where the services already are avoids extra plumbing and electrical work.
• Clear the room yourself. Emptying cupboards and removing the old contents saves time. If you are able, remove the old kitchen carefully or arrange disposal yourself, but agree this first so nobody is surprised.
• Have everything on site before the start. A fitter waiting for a missing door or a delayed worktop cannot work efficiently. Check deliveries against the order and look for damage.
• Get the walls and floor sorted first. Plastering, decorating and flooring decisions made before the fitter arrives avoid return visits.
• Be decisive about the design. Changes after the fitting has started cause delays and rework.
• Get several quotes on the same basis. Give each fitter the same plans and the same list of what is and is not included.
• Use the right person for each job. A skilled fitter should not be spending time on tasks like tiling if a cheaper tradesperson can do it, but only if the sequence of work is planned properly.

What should be included in a quote

Ask for a written quote that covers the following:

• [ ] Full address and a clear description of the work
• [ ] Which units, worktops and appliances are being fitted, with reference to your plan
• [ ] Whether the old kitchen is being removed and who disposes of it
• [ ] Whether plumbing connections, electrical work or gas work are included, and who will do them
• [ ] Worktop cutting, joints, sink and hob cut-outs, and sealing
• [ ] Fitting of plinths, cornice, pelmets, end panels and handles
• [ ] Making good: filling, sealing and silicone around the worktop and sink
• [ ] Who supplies fixings, adhesives, sealants and consumables
• [ ] What happens if hidden problems show up, such as damp, poor walls or old pipework
• [ ] Start date, expected length of the job and payment terms
• [ ] Proof of insurance, and certificates for any notifiable electrical or gas work
• [ ] How waste and packaging will be dealt with
• [ ] Whether VAT is included, if the fitter is VAT registered

Questions to ask a kitchen fitter

• Can I see photos or visit a recent job that is similar to mine?
• Will you visit and measure before giving a final quote?
• Are you fitting alone or with a team, and who will be in my home each day?
• Who is responsible if a unit or worktop is damaged or arrives wrong?
• How do you deal with walls and floors that are not level?
• Are you able to do the plumbing and electrics, or will you bring in other trades? Are they registered?
• What guarantee do you give on your workmanship?
• How much deposit do you need, and when are the stage payments due?
• What will you need from me, and by when?
• If the job overruns, how will that be handled?

How long it takes and what to expect

The time depends on the size of the kitchen, the layout and whether the old kitchen needs removing. A small, simple kitchen might take a few days. A larger one with integrated appliances, an island or several trades can take a couple of weeks or more.

The usual order is: strip-out if needed, first-fix plumbing and electrics, any wall and floor preparation, then units, worktops, sink and appliances, and finally second-fix work and finishing. Stone or quartz worktops add a gap, because templating happens after the units are in and the tops are made afterwards. During that gap you may be without a sink or hob.

Expect noise, dust and disruption, with the water and power off at times. Set up a temporary kitchen elsewhere in the house. Make sure the fitter can reach the stopcock and consumer unit and knows where they are. At the end, check doors and drawers line up and close properly, worktop joints are tight and sealed, appliances work, and there are no chips or marks. Keep back the final payment until you are satisfied and have collected any certificates.

Signs a quote is too cheap or too expensive

Too cheap

• It is far below the others and the fitter cannot explain why
• The quote is vague, verbal or a single line
• Large cash payment up front, or pressure to decide quickly
• No mention of worktops, making good, or waste removal
• No insurance, no references and no photos of past work
• Electrical or gas work offered with no sign of being registered

A low price may mean corners will be cut, extras will appear later, or the fitter will not turn up.

Too expensive

• A much higher figure than other quotes for the same specification, with no explanation
• Extras bundled in that you did not ask for
• Vague allowances for unknowns with no detail
• Unwillingness to break the price down

A higher quote can be fair if it reflects a better fitter, a tricky room or extra trades. Ask for a breakdown and compare it with the prices on this page, which show what other homeowners actually paid. If a quote still looks out of line, ask the fitter to explain it.