How much does window replacement cost?

Replacing windows with new double or triple glazing. Prices below are for: a whole-house or part replacement.

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Window replacement prices near you

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What the job involves

Window replacement means taking out your existing frames and glazing and fitting new sealed units in their place. Most homes in the UK now have double glazing, so a lot of the work is replacing tired or failed units with better ones. Some homes move up to triple glazing, and older houses may still have single glazing or original timber sashes.

A typical job covers:

  • Measuring each opening, usually on a separate survey visit
  • Manufacturing the frames and glazed units to order, which takes a few weeks
  • Removing the old windows and disposing of them
  • Fitting the new frames, packing and fixing them securely, and sealing around them
  • Fitting new sills or cills, trims and handles where needed
  • Making good the plaster and decoration around the openings, to the extent agreed

The scope can be a whole house or just a few windows, such as the ones at the front, or the ones with blown units. Replacing only the glazed units and keeping sound frames is also an option, and it is often cheaper if the frames are in good condition. Most fitters will say if they think your frames are past saving.

Window replacement is covered by Building Regulations in England and Wales. Most reputable installers are registered with a competent person scheme, so they can self-certify the work. Otherwise you will need to involve building control. Either way, you should end up with a certificate for the work.

What affects the price

No two houses cost the same to glaze. These are the factors that move the price most.

  • Number of windows. More openings mean more materials and more fitting time, though a large order can lower the cost per window.
  • Size and shape. Large picture windows and patio-style openings use more glass and heavier frames. Bespoke shapes such as arches, bays and bows cost noticeably more than standard rectangles.
  • Frame material. uPVC is usually the most affordable. Aluminium costs more, and timber and composite frames tend to cost more again. Quality within each material also varies.
  • Double or triple glazing. Triple units use more glass and heavier frames, so they cost more. They do not suit every property or every budget.
  • Glass specification. Low-emissivity coatings, gas fills, warm-edge spacers, acoustic glass, laminated safety glass and obscure glass all affect the price.
  • Style and opening type. Casement, tilt-and-turn, sliding sash and fixed lights are all priced differently. Sash-style windows, particularly authentic timber or mechanical box sashes, involve more work.
  • Colour and finish. White is the standard choice. Woodgrain effects, coloured foils and different colours inside and out add cost.
  • Access. Upper floors, flats, narrow side access and a lack of parking mean more time and sometimes scaffolding or a tower.
  • Condition of the openings. Rotten lintels, damaged reveals or poorly fitted previous frames can mean extra repair work.
  • Property type and location. Listed buildings and conservation areas may need specific materials and consent, which narrows your choice and can raise the price. Labour rates also differ between regions.
  • Extras. Internal sills, external sills, new trims, trickle vents, child locks, restrictors and decorating after the fitters leave can all be priced separately.

Ways to keep the cost down

  • Get several quotes for the same specification, so you are comparing like with like.
  • Replace only what needs replacing. Failed sealed units in sound frames can often be swapped without new frames.
  • Choose standard sizes and styles over bespoke shapes where the look is not important.
  • Be realistic about glazing. Good double glazing is often entirely adequate. Triple glazing is worth considering for noisy roads or very exposed homes, but it may take a long time to pay back.
  • Do the decorating yourself. Agree that the fitter will leave the plaster neat and unpainted, then finish it yourself.
  • Do the whole house at once if you plan to replace everything eventually. A single larger order usually works out better than several small ones.
  • Be flexible on timing. Quieter times of year can mean more competitive quotes.
  • Avoid last-minute changes once the windows are ordered, because changes to made-to-measure items can be costly or impossible.

What should be included in a quote

A proper quote is written, itemised and specific. Check that it includes:

  • [ ] Your name, address and the installer's full company details
  • [ ] A window-by-window schedule with sizes, styles and opening types
  • [ ] The frame material, colour and finish, inside and out
  • [ ] The glazing specification, including any safety or obscure glass
  • [ ] Handles, locks, vents and any restrictors
  • [ ] Sills, trims and fascia or cladding work
  • [ ] Removal and disposal of the old windows
  • [ ] Making good plaster and any decorating, or a clear note that this is excluded
  • [ ] Building Regulations compliance and the certificate you will receive
  • [ ] Guarantee details covering both product and installation
  • [ ] Payment terms, deposit and what happens if dates change
  • [ ] Whether VAT is included
  • [ ] An estimated start date and duration

Questions to ask a window fitter

  • Do your own employed fitters do the installation, or do you subcontract?
  • Which competent person scheme are you registered with, and will I get a certificate?
  • Who makes the windows, and can I see a sample or visit a showroom?
  • Is the guarantee insurance-backed, in case the company stops trading?
  • How do you deal with the existing frames, and what happens if you find rot or damage behind them?
  • Will the new windows meet current energy efficiency and ventilation requirements for my property?
  • Will any bedroom windows need to be large enough to escape through?
  • How much mess should I expect inside, and who will clean up?
  • What happens if a unit arrives damaged or the wrong size?
  • Can I speak to a recent customer or see a similar job?

How long it takes and what to expect

After you accept a quote, there is usually a survey and then a wait while the windows are made. That wait is often several weeks, longer for bespoke or timber windows.

Fitting is quicker than most people expect. A small job might take a day, and a whole house usually takes a few days. Fitters generally work room by room or window by window so the house is not left open for long. Expect noise, dust and some disruption to furniture near the windows, so clear space beforehand and take down curtains and blinds.

On the day, the old frames come out, the new ones go in and are levelled and fixed, and the gaps are sealed. Check each window opens, closes and locks smoothly before the fitters leave. Keep the paperwork, including the guarantee and the compliance certificate, because you will need it if you sell the house.

Small snags such as a stiff handle or a gap in the sealant should be fixed promptly. If the installer is slow to respond, put your concerns in writing.

Signs a quote is too cheap or too expensive

Too cheap

  • It is much lower than the others for the same specification
  • The quote is vague, with no window schedule or glass details
  • There is heavy pressure to sign on the day, or a discount that expires tonight
  • The installer cannot name a competent person scheme or provide a certificate
  • The guarantee is unclear, or it is not backed by insurance
  • A large deposit is demanded up front
  • Disposal, sills, trims or making good are missing

Too expensive

  • The quote has a single total with no breakdown
  • It includes premium glass, finishes or extras you did not ask for
  • A clearly higher price cannot be explained by better product quality or better service
  • The installer is not interested in discussing the specification
  • The allowance for access or extra work seems excessive, with no explanation

The best check is to compare your quote with the prices on this page, then ask each installer to explain any big differences. A good fitter will be happy to do that.

Questions about window replacement costs

Do I need planning permission to replace my windows?

Usually not for like-for-like replacements in an ordinary house, but listed buildings, conservation areas and some homes with specific restrictions may need consent. Check with your local council before ordering.

Is triple glazing worth it compared with double?

It can help with noise and cold, especially in exposed or very noisy locations, but it costs more and the extra benefit is smaller than the jump from single to double. For many homes, good double glazing is enough.

Can I replace just the glass and keep my frames?

Yes, if the frames are sound and the problem is failed or misted sealed units. It is often cheaper than full replacement, though it will not fix tired frames, hinges or seals.

How do I know the work meets Building Regulations?

Ask whether the installer is registered with a competent person scheme, or whether they will arrange building control approval. You should receive a certificate when the work is finished.

Should I pay a deposit up front?

A modest deposit is common for made-to-measure windows, but be wary of large payments before any work starts. Make sure the deposit and the guarantee are covered in writing.

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