What the job involves
A composite front door is a factory-made door slab built from a mix of materials, typically a timber or solid core, a glass-reinforced plastic (GRP) skin, and insulating foam. It sits in a frame, usually uPVC or aluminium and occasionally timber. A supply and fit job normally covers one door with its frame, delivered ready made to your measurements and installed in place of the old one.
The work usually runs in this order: a surveyor or fitter measures the opening, you choose the style, colour and hardware, and the door is made to order. On the day, the fitter removes the old door and frame, checks the opening, fits the new frame, hangs the door, adjusts the hinges and locks, and seals around the frame inside and out. Old materials are normally taken away.
Replacement doors need to meet building regulations, covering things like thermal performance, safe glazing and ventilation. Most reputable installers belong to a competent person scheme, which lets them certify their own work. If yours does not, the work may need to be notified to building control. Either way, you should end up with a certificate or confirmation.
What affects the price
Two front doors that look similar from the pavement can cost quite different amounts. These are the things that move the price most:
- Door style and design. A plain panelled door costs less to make than one with decorative glazing, multiple panels, or a bold contemporary finish.
- Glazing. More glass, bevelled or leaded glass, and toughened or laminated units all add cost. Triple glazing costs more than double.
- Frame size and sidelights. A standard single door in a standard opening is the cheapest route. Side panels, a fanlight above, or an unusual opening size mean a larger frame and more fitting time.
- Made-to-measure or non-standard sizes. Older properties often have openings that are out of square or not a standard size, which can mean a bespoke frame or extra making-good.
- Colour and finish. Standard white or common colours cost less than a dual-colour door, a wood-grain finish, or a bespoke shade.
- Hardware. Handles, letterbox, knocker, hinges, number and spyhole can be basic or high specification. Multipoint locks are standard on most composite doors, but cylinder quality varies, and higher security ratings cost more.
- Security and performance ratings. Doors tested to a recognised security standard such as PAS 24 usually cost more than those that are not.
- Brand and manufacturer. A well-known manufacturer with a long guarantee will generally charge more than a lesser-known supplier.
- Access and condition of the opening. Rotten timber, damaged brickwork or a failing threshold or cill can add repair work. Difficult access, such as steps or a narrow entrance, can add labour.
- Making good. Some quotes include plastering, internal trims and external sealing or repainting. Others leave these to you.
- Your location. Labour rates and installer demand vary by region, and that shows in the prices on this page.
Ways to keep the cost down
- Keep the opening size. Fitting a door to the same size as the existing one is much simpler than altering the structure.
- Choose a standard design and colour. Popular styles are made in volume and are usually cheaper than bespoke options.
- Be sensible with glazing. A door with less glass or simpler glass is cheaper, and often warmer and more secure.
- Check what is included before comparing. A cheaper quote that leaves out the lock upgrade, waste removal or making good may not be cheaper in the end.
- Get several quotes. Make sure each is for the same door specification so you are comparing like with like.
- Be flexible on timing. Some installers have quieter periods and may be more flexible, though lead times for made-to-order doors are usually several weeks anyway.
- Do the simple prep yourself. Clearing the area around the door and arranging for the old furniture or mats to be moved saves a little time on the day.
- Do not cut corners on the fitting. A good door that is badly fitted will drop, leak or draught. Saving money on the installation is rarely worth it.
What should be included in a quote
A proper quote should be written and itemised. Look for these:
- [ ] Door style, colour (inside and outside) and finish clearly described
- [ ] Frame material, colour and size, including any sidelights or fanlight
- [ ] Glazing type and specification
- [ ] Lock type, number of locking points and cylinder security rating
- [ ] Handles, letterbox, hinges, threshold and other hardware, with colours
- [ ] Removal and disposal of the old door and frame
- [ ] Making good, such as internal trims, plaster repairs and external sealing, and whether decorating is included
- [ ] Who measures, and whether the measurements are guaranteed
- [ ] Building regulations compliance and the certificate you will receive
- [ ] Guarantee details for the door, the hardware and the installation
- [ ] Deposit, stage payments and when the balance is due
- [ ] Estimated lead time and fitting date
- [ ] Whether VAT is included
Questions to ask a window fitter
- Do you survey and measure the opening yourself, and who is responsible if the door arrives the wrong size?
- Which manufacturer makes the door, and can I see a sample or visit a showroom?
- Is the door tested to a recognised security standard, and what locks come as standard?
- Are you registered with a competent person scheme, and will I get a certificate?
- Is the work done by your own employees or by subcontractors?
- What happens if the opening turns out to need repair once the old door is out?
- Will you fit the door on the day it is removed, so the house is never left insecure overnight?
- What does the guarantee cover, and is it insurance-backed in case the company stops trading?
- How much deposit do you need, and when is the balance due?
- How will you finish around the frame inside and out?
How long it takes and what to expect
The wait is usually longer than the fit. Because the door is made to order, lead times of several weeks are normal. The survey comes first, then manufacture, then delivery.
A straightforward replacement is typically done in a single day. Expect some noise and dust while the old frame is cut or levered out, and the front of the house will be open for a while, so plan around pets, children and deliveries. A tidy fitter will protect floors and clean up afterwards.
Once the door is in, check that it opens and closes smoothly, that the multipoint lock engages cleanly, and that the gaps around the edge look even. Look at the finish for scratches or marks, and test every key. Ask for a demonstration of how to adjust the hinges and lock, as doors can settle in the first few weeks. If you rent or own a flat, check whether the door belongs to you or the freeholder before ordering, as there may be rules on appearance or fire performance.
Signs a quote is too cheap or too expensive
Possible signs of too cheap:
- A vague quote with no specification, brand or lock details
- No mention of building regulations or a certificate
- Pressure to pay a large deposit upfront or decide on the spot
- No company address, landline, or verifiable reviews
- Very short lead times for a made-to-measure door
- Guarantees that are unclear or not backed by insurance
- Exclusions such as waste removal or making good that only appear later
Possible signs of too expensive:
- A price well above others for the same door and specification
- Large, unexplained allowances for extras you have not asked for
- A brand premium with no clear benefit in performance or guarantee
- Making good costs that do not match the condition of your opening
- Reluctance to itemise the quote
Use the prices on this page as a guide to what other homeowners locally have paid, then ask each installer to explain any gap between their quote and that picture. A good fitter will be happy to do so.