What the job involves
The roofline is the strip of boards and fittings along the edge of your roof. Fascias are the boards running along the bottom of the roof slope, fixed to the ends of the rafters, and they carry the gutters. Soffits are the boards on the underside, closing the gap between the fascia and the wall. On a gable end, the sloping boards are called bargeboards. Guttering and downpipes then take the rainwater away to the drains.
A typical uPVC job replaces all of these on a standard house. The usual order of work is:
- Erect scaffolding or a safe working platform along the eaves.
- Take down the old gutters and downpipes.
- Strip off the old fascias and soffits.
- Inspect the rafter ends and the timber behind for rot or damage.
- Fit new boards, usually with ventilation built into the soffit or fitted above the fascia.
- Fit new gutters, brackets, stop ends, corners and downpipes, then check the falls and the connection to the drains.
Some firms offer "capping" or "cover-over", where new uPVC is fitted over sound existing timber. This can suit a roofline in good condition, but it hides what is underneath. Full replacement lets the installer see and repair the structure behind.
What affects the price
No two rooflines are the same, so prices vary. These are the main factors:
- Size and shape of the house. More length of roofline means more boards, more gutter and more labour. A detached house with several gables costs more than a small terrace.
- Height and access. A two- or three-storey house needs more scaffolding than a bungalow. Narrow side passages, steep gardens or extensions in the way make erecting it slower and dearer.
- Scaffolding. It is often one of the larger single items. Some roofers include it in their price and some charge it separately, so check which.
- Condition of the timber behind. If rafter ends or the wall plate are rotten, repairs add time and materials. This is often the cause of a price changing after work starts.
- Materials and finish. White is the standard choice. Woodgrain, black or anthracite finishes cost more. So do thicker, better-quality boards and heavier-duty gutter systems.
- Gutter profile. Standard half-round or square profiles are common. Deep-flow or larger gutters cost more but cope better with big roof areas.
- Complexity. Lots of corners, bay windows, porches, dormers and different roof levels all add cutting, jointing and fiddly work.
- Whether you replace everything. Doing only the gutters, or only the fascias, usually costs less overall. But if scaffolding is needed twice, you may pay for it twice.
- Disposal and old materials. Removing and disposing of old timber, plastic and gutters is a cost in itself. Older soffits may contain asbestos, which needs specialist handling and raises the cost.
- Location and demand. Labour rates and scaffold hire vary around the UK, and good firms are busier in spring and summer.
The prices on this page show what other homeowners actually paid, which gives you a better guide than any general rule of thumb.
Ways to keep the cost down
- Do it all in one visit. Replacing fascias, soffits, gutters and downpipes together means you only pay for scaffolding once.
- Combine with other work. If you are having roof repairs, painting or window work done that needs scaffolding, plan the roofline at the same time.
- Keep the specification simple. Standard white uPVC and a common gutter profile are cheaper than special colours or unusual styles.
- Clear access. Move cars, bins, plants and garden furniture away from the house so the crew can work without delay.
- Get several quotes. Get at least three, each based on the same scope, so you are comparing like with like.
- Keep gutters maintained afterwards. Clearing leaves and moss regularly prevents overflow damage to new boards, so you won't be paying for a repeat job.
- Ask about cover-over only if the timber is sound. It can be cheaper, but only if the existing boards and rafter ends are in good condition. Otherwise you are covering up a problem.
What should be included in a quote
A proper quote should be in writing and specific. Check that it covers:
- [ ] Full address and a clear description of which elevations and sections are being done
- [ ] Fascias, soffits, bargeboards, gutters and downpipes listed separately
- [ ] Material type, colour and gutter profile
- [ ] Scaffolding: whether it is included, who supplies it, and whether it is erected by a qualified scaffolder
- [ ] Removal and disposal of old materials, with a registered waste carrier
- [ ] Soffit and eaves ventilation
- [ ] What happens if rotten timber is found, and how any extra repairs would be priced
- [ ] Treatment of any suspected asbestos
- [ ] Making good, including sealing and tidying, and a site clean-up
- [ ] Start date, expected duration and payment terms
- [ ] Guarantee details, in writing
- [ ] Public liability insurance
- [ ] VAT, shown clearly if applicable
Questions to ask a roofer
- Are you replacing the boards or covering over the old ones, and why?
- Who is doing the scaffolding, and is it included in the quote?
- Will you check the rafter ends and timber behind once the old boards are off?
- How would you price any extra repairs, and will you agree them with me first?
- What brand and grade of uPVC and gutter system are you using?
- How will the roof be ventilated after the work?
- Do you carry public liability insurance, and can I see proof?
- Are you a member of a trade body, and can you give me recent local references?
- Who will be on site, and are they your own employees or subcontractors?
- What does the guarantee cover, and who do I contact if there is a problem?
- If you suspect the soffits contain asbestos, what do you do?
How long it takes and what to expect
For a typical house, the job usually takes a few days from scaffolding going up to it coming down. Smaller properties can be quicker, and larger or more complicated ones take longer. Bad weather can delay things, particularly high wind or heavy rain.
Expect noise, ladders and scaffolding around the house, and a crew working at the edges of your property. Access to the garden and driveway may be limited. Windows can usually stay closed and you can stay at home, but dust and debris can fall from the old boards, so it helps to cover items near the walls.
Once the old boards are off, the installer may find rot, nesting birds or old damage. Good firms will show you, explain the options and agree any change in price before carrying on. At the end, walk round with the installer, check the joints and finish, and ideally watch the gutters during rain. Look for drips, standing water or overflow. Keep your paperwork and guarantee.
Signs a quote is too cheap or too expensive
Too cheap
- The price is far below other quotes with no clear reason.
- Scaffolding is missing, or the roofer plans to work from ladders on a house where that is unsafe.
- The quote is vague, with no list of materials or what is being replaced.
- Disposal of old materials is not mentioned.
- There is pressure to pay a large amount upfront, or to pay cash with no paperwork.
- No insurance, no address, no references and no guarantee.
- The plan is to cap over damaged timber without looking at it.
Too expensive
- The price is far above other quotes for the same scope, and the roofer cannot explain why.
- Scaffolding, materials or labour appear as a single large sum with no breakdown.
- The specification includes premium materials you did not ask for.
- Allowances for extra repairs are large and not tied to anything found.
- The firm pushes you to sign quickly, "while the scaffold is available", or offers a discount that vanishes after a day or two.
Compare any quote against the prices on this page, and ask each firm to price the same scope so the figures can be compared fairly.