What the job involves
Replacing a garden fence usually means taking out the old panels and, in most cases, some or all of the posts, then putting up a new run. A typical garden run is the back or side boundary of an ordinary house, often with a gate or a couple of awkward corners.
The work normally goes in this order:
- Marking out the line and checking where the boundary actually sits.
- Removing the old panels, posts, and any gravel boards or fixings.
- Digging out or breaking out old post foundations, which is often the hardest part of the job.
- Setting new posts in the ground, either in concrete or in post spurs or metal supports, and leaving them to firm up.
- Fitting gravel boards, panels, and capping or trims.
- Hanging or replacing a gate, if included.
- Taking away the old material and leaving the site tidy.
Some jobs only need new panels because the posts are still sound. That is the cheapest route, but it is only worth doing if the posts are solid below ground level. A post that looks fine above the soil can be rotten where it meets the ground, so a good contractor will check this before quoting.
What affects the price
Two fences of the same length can cost quite different amounts. These are the things that move the price most.
- Length of the run. More length means more panels, posts, concrete, and labour. Corners and changes of direction add time because each one needs careful setting out.
- Height and style. Standard overlap panels are the budget option. Closeboard, featherboard, slatted, or hit-and-miss designs cost more in materials and often take longer to fit. Taller fences need longer posts and deeper holes.
- Post type. Timber posts are the usual choice. Concrete posts cost more and are heavier to handle, but they last longer and resist rot. Pressure-treated timber is better than untreated, and the quality of treatment varies between suppliers.
- Timber quality. Cheap panels may be thin, dip-treated, and prone to warping. Better panels use heavier framing and more durable boards. The price difference shows up in how long the fence lasts.
- Removal of the old fence. Rotten panels can be lifted out quickly. Old posts set in a lot of concrete take much more effort to dig out. Disposal of the waste also costs money.
- Ground conditions. Heavy clay, stones, tree roots, or old rubble all slow down digging. Soft or sandy ground may need deeper or wider foundations to hold posts firm.
- Slopes and uneven ground. A sloping garden means stepping the panels or cutting them to follow the ground. That takes more time and sometimes more materials.
- Access. If everything has to be carried through the house or down a narrow side passage, labour time goes up. Easy access from a driveway or lane keeps it down.
- Gates. A new gate means extra posts, hinges, a latch, and the time to hang it so it closes properly.
- Finishing. Gravel boards, post caps, and a coat of preservative or stain all add to materials and labour.
- Location and demand. Prices vary by region, and good fencers are often busy in spring and summer.
The prices on this page show what homeowners in your area actually paid, which is a better guide than a national average.
Ways to keep the cost down
- Keep sound posts. If the posts are in good condition, replacing only the panels saves on materials, digging, and concrete. Ask the fencer to test them rather than assuming.
- Choose a simpler style. A plain panel fence costs less than a bespoke design, and it still does the job if privacy is the main aim.
- Clear the line first. Cutting back shrubs, moving plant pots, and clearing the base of the old fence saves the fencer's time, and that time is what you pay for.
- Remove the old fence yourself, if you can. Some people take down the panels and stack them for collection. Check what the fencer is happy with before you do, as they may prefer to deal with the posts themselves.
- Do it outside the busiest months. Autumn and winter can be quieter, though wet or frozen ground may delay the work.
- Get the quotes on the same basis. Ask each contractor to price the same height, style, and post type so you are comparing like with like.
- Do not cut corners on posts. Saving money on posts usually costs more later, because the fence fails at the posts first.
What should be included in a quote
A proper written quote should cover:
- [ ] The exact length of fence and the height
- [ ] The type and grade of panels, posts, and gravel boards
- [ ] How the posts will be fixed (concrete, spurs, or concrete posts)
- [ ] Whether old posts will be dug out or cut off
- [ ] Removal and disposal of the old fence and rubble
- [ ] Any gate, including size, hinges, and latch
- [ ] Any treatment or staining of the new timber
- [ ] Who supplies materials and whether they are included in the price
- [ ] Start date, expected duration, and payment terms
- [ ] Whether VAT is included, if the contractor is VAT-registered
- [ ] Insurance details and any guarantee on the work
- [ ] What happens if buried obstacles or poor ground are found
Questions to ask a landscaper
- Who owns this fence, and have you checked the boundary line with me? Responsibility for a boundary is not always obvious, and it is worth settling before work starts.
- Will you reuse any of the existing posts, and how will you check their condition?
- How deep will the posts go, and how will they be fixed?
- What grade of timber are you using, and how has it been treated?
- Do you carry public liability insurance, and can I see proof?
- Will you take the old fence away, or do I need to arrange it?
- What will you do if the neighbour's side needs access?
- Is there a deposit, and when is the balance due?
- Can you show me recent fencing jobs, or give me a reference?
If your property is listed, in a conservation area, or the fence will be tall or next to a road, check whether permission is needed. There are height limits, and they are stricter beside a highway. Your local council can tell you.
How long it takes and what to expect
A typical garden run is often done in a day or two once work starts, though longer runs, awkward ground, or lots of old concrete can stretch that. Wet weather can also hold things up.
Expect noise, some mess, and temporary gaps in your boundary. If you have pets or children, plan for that. Fencers will usually need access to both sides of the line, so it helps to tell your neighbours in advance.
Posts need time to set, and a good fencer will not rush the panels onto posts that have not firmed up. Once finished, the fence should be straight, the panels should sit level or follow the ground evenly, and gravel boards should keep the timber clear of the soil. Gates should swing freely and latch without being forced.
Timber fences generally benefit from regular treatment once they have weathered. Ask the fencer what they recommend and when.
Signs a quote is too cheap or too expensive
Too cheap
- No detail on materials, only a single line such as "supply and fit fence".
- Thin panels, untreated timber, or posts that look short for the height.
- No mention of removing the old fence or taking away waste.
- Pressure for cash payment, or a large upfront payment.
- No insurance, no address, and no references.
- A price well below every other quote, which usually means something has been left out or the quality is lower.
Too expensive
- A high price with no explanation of what makes it different from the others.
- Premium materials quoted when you asked for a standard fence.
- Extras bundled in that you did not request, such as staining or a new gate.
- Vague allowances for ground problems that have not been looked at.
- A reluctance to itemise, or to explain how the price was reached.
Compare your quotes against the local prices on this page, then ask the contractor to explain any big gaps. A good fencer will be happy to walk you through the figures.