How much does new kitchen cost?

Supply and fit of a complete kitchen. Prices below are for: units, worktops, appliances and fitting.

We're still collecting real prices for new kitchen. We only show figures once enough people near you have shared what they paid, so you can trust them. Had this done recently? Share your price anonymously.

New kitchen prices near you

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What the job involves

A new kitchen supply and fit means taking out the old kitchen and putting in a complete new one. That covers base and wall units, worktops, sink and tap, appliances, and the fitting work that ties it together. The job is usually more than swapping boxes for boxes. A good fitter is also dealing with the walls, floor, plumbing and electrics around the units.

A typical job includes:

  • Removing and disposing of the old units, worktops and appliances
  • Making good the walls and floor where the old kitchen sat
  • Moving or adjusting plumbing and electrical points to suit the new layout
  • Assembling and fixing the new units, doors, handles and cornice or pelmets
  • Cutting and fitting worktops, including sink and hob cut-outs
  • Installing the sink, tap, appliances and extractor
  • Fitting splashbacks, end panels and any finishing trims

Some of this work is regulated. Gas connections, such as a gas hob or cooker, must be done by a Gas Safe registered engineer. Electrical work, particularly new circuits, must meet Building Regulations and be certified by a suitably registered electrician. A fitter who doesn't do this work themselves should bring in someone who is qualified, and should tell you who it is.

What affects the price

Kitchen prices vary widely because several big decisions stack up. The main drivers are:

  • Size and layout. More units, more worktop and more wall space to cover all mean more materials and more labour. A simple run along one wall is quicker than an L-shaped or island layout.
  • Unit quality and type. Flat-pack units cost less than rigid, pre-assembled ones. Better carcass material, soft-close hinges and drawer systems all add to the price, as does a bespoke or made-to-measure range.
  • Door style and finish. Basic laminate or slab doors sit at the lower end. Painted, solid wood or handleless designs cost more, and some are harder to fit neatly.
  • Worktop material. Laminate is the most affordable. Solid wood, quartz, granite and similar materials cost more to buy, are heavier, and need specialist templating and fitting.
  • Appliances. The range is huge. Integrated appliances generally cost more than freestanding ones, and brand and features push the price up further.
  • Condition of the room. Uneven walls, a poor floor, damp, old wiring or outdated pipework all need dealing with before units go in. This is the most common source of extra cost.
  • Moving services. Relocating the sink, cooker or radiator, or adding sockets and lighting, means plumber and electrician time.
  • Structural or layout changes. Removing a wall, opening up to a dining room or adding a chimney breast extractor adds labour and may need building control involvement.
  • Flooring, tiling and decorating. These are sometimes priced separately, so check what is and isn't in the quote.
  • Access and location. Upper floors, narrow stairs, limited parking and regional labour rates all affect the final figure.
  • Who supplies what. A fitter supplying everything usually adds a margin. Buying the kitchen yourself can change the price, but it also changes who is responsible if something is wrong.

Ways to keep the cost down

  • Keep the existing layout. Leaving the sink, cooker and radiator where they are avoids a lot of plumbing, electrical and making-good work.
  • Spend where it counts. Good hinges, drawers and carcasses last longer than fashionable doors. A mid-range door on a solid carcass often beats the reverse.
  • Choose worktops carefully. A more affordable worktop with a good edge detail can look good for years. Save the premium stone for a smaller area if you want it.
  • Be realistic about appliances. You don't need every appliance integrated. Freestanding items you already own and that work well can stay.
  • Get the room ready. If you are able, clear the old kitchen, empty cupboards and move furniture out so the fitter's time goes on fitting.
  • Decide before you order. Changing your mind after units are ordered is expensive. Settle the layout, handles and appliance models first.
  • Compare like with like. Get several quotes based on the same drawings and specification, so you are comparing the work and not just the totals.
  • Be flexible on timing. Some fitters and suppliers have quieter periods or sales on ranges and appliances. Don't rush into a deal because of a pressure deadline, though.

What should be included in a quote

A clear quote should be itemised and written down. Check for:

  • [ ] Full list of units, with range, door style and finish named
  • [ ] Worktop material, thickness, edge profile and upstands or splashback
  • [ ] Sink, tap and waste, with models stated
  • [ ] Every appliance, with make and model
  • [ ] Removal and disposal of the old kitchen
  • [ ] Plumbing work, including connections for appliances
  • [ ] Electrical work, including who will certify it
  • [ ] Gas work by a Gas Safe registered engineer, if relevant
  • [ ] Making good: plastering, patching, filling and preparing walls
  • [ ] Flooring, tiling and decorating, either included or clearly excluded
  • [ ] Extractor, ducting and lighting
  • [ ] Delivery, storage and protection of the rest of the house
  • [ ] VAT, if applicable
  • [ ] Payment schedule, with stage payments tied to progress
  • [ ] Start date, estimated duration and how delays are handled
  • [ ] Guarantee details for the fitting and the products
  • [ ] How extras or changes will be priced and agreed

Questions to ask a kitchen fitter

  • Will you visit and measure properly before quoting, and will you produce a plan?
  • Do you do the plumbing and electrics yourself, or use subcontractors? Are they registered?
  • What happens if you find problems behind the old units, such as damp or poor wiring?
  • Who orders the kitchen, and what happens if something arrives damaged or incorrect?
  • Will anyone check the delivery against the order before fitting begins?
  • Can I see photos of recent work, or speak to a recent customer?
  • How will you protect floors and the rest of the house?
  • Who will be on site each day, and will it be the same people throughout?
  • What deposit do you need, and what is it for?
  • What guarantee do you give on the fitting?
  • How much of the sink, worktop and appliance work is included, and what is excluded?

How long it takes and what to expect

A straightforward like-for-like replacement is often done in about a week or two on site. A kitchen with layout changes, new flooring, plastering or structural work takes longer. Lead times for the units themselves are often the slowest part, so order early and don't strip out the old kitchen until the new one has been delivered and checked.

Expect the order of work to run roughly like this: strip out, first-fix plumbing and electrics, making good and any plastering, flooring if it goes under the units, then units, worktops, second-fix plumbing and electrics, appliances, and finishing. Plaster and paint need time to dry, and stone worktops are often templated after the units are fitted, which means a gap before the final templated top goes in.

You will be without a working kitchen for part of this. Set up a temporary area with a kettle, microwave and somewhere to wash up. Dust and noise are unavoidable, so keep doors closed and expect to clean at the end.

Walk through the finished job with the fitter before final payment. Check doors and drawers close evenly, worktop joints are tight, the sink and appliances work, and any electrical or gas certificates are handed over.

Signs a quote is too cheap or too expensive

Too cheap

  • The quote is vague: a single total with no breakdown, or only a kitchen range name with nothing else.
  • Key items such as removal, plumbing, electrics, making good or worktop fitting are not mentioned.
  • The fitter will not confirm who does gas or electrical work, or can't show registration.
  • You're asked for a large payment up front, or cash only with no paperwork.
  • The price is far below others for the same specification, and no one can explain why.
  • There are no references, no photos of past work and no address.

Too expensive

  • Prices for units, worktops or appliances are well above what you see for the same products elsewhere.
  • A large allowance for unspecified extras or contingencies with no explanation.
  • Labour is charged for work that isn't needed, such as moving services you aren't changing.
  • The quote is padded with premium products you didn't ask for.
  • The fitter won't itemise or won't explain how they've priced the job.

Use the prices on this page as a guide to what other homeowners locally have paid, then ask your fitter to explain any large difference. A good tradesperson will be happy to talk through the figures.

Questions about new kitchen costs

Should I buy the kitchen myself or let the fitter supply it?

Buying it yourself gives you control over the range and where it comes from, but you take responsibility for checking the order and sorting out any damage or missing parts. Having the fitter supply it is simpler, with one point of contact if something goes wrong.

Do I need building regulations approval for a new kitchen?

A like-for-like replacement often doesn't, but some electrical work, gas work, structural changes or new ventilation can fall under Building Regulations. Ask your fitter what applies to your job and make sure you get the right certificates.

Can I stay in the house while the kitchen is being fitted?

Yes, most people do, but you will have no proper kitchen for a time and there will be dust and noise. Plan a temporary cooking and washing-up area before work starts.

Should I remove the old kitchen myself?

You can if you are competent and careful, as it can cut labour time. Leave the disconnection of gas, water and electrics to the fitter or other qualified people, and agree in advance who will take the waste away.

What can cause a kitchen quote to go up after work starts?

The usual causes are hidden problems behind the old units, such as damp, uneven walls or old wiring, and changes you make once the job is under way. A clear written quote that explains how extras are priced helps avoid disputes.

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