What the job involves
A patio is mostly groundwork with a surface on top. The paving gets the attention, but the base underneath decides whether the patio stays flat and drains properly for years or starts to sink and hold water within a couple of winters.
A typical installation covers:
- Setting out. Marking the shape, agreeing levels and deciding which way water will run. A patio needs a gentle fall away from the house so rain does not pool against the walls.
- Excavation. Removing turf, soil or an old surface to the depth needed for the base and paving, then taking the waste away.
- Sub-base. Laying and compacting a layer of hardcore or crushed stone, usually with a membrane beneath to stop weeds and keep the soil and stone from mixing.
- Edge restraint. Haunching or concrete edging so the outer slabs cannot creep outwards.
- Laying bed. Mortar or a sharp sand and cement mix, depending on the paving and the ground.
- Laying the paving. Natural stone, sandstone, limestone, granite or porcelain, cut to fit at the edges and around obstacles such as drains and manhole covers.
- Jointing. Pointing with mortar, a resin-based jointing compound or a brush-in product, depending on the material.
- Cleaning down. Removing residue, which matters especially with porcelain.
The level of the finished patio matters. It should sit below the damp-proof course of the house, and a good installer will check this before starting. If you are paving a front garden, be aware that rules on hard surfaces and drainage can apply, so ask your installer about it and check with your local council if unsure.
What affects the price
- Size of the area. More square metres means more material, more excavation, more spoil and more labour. Larger patios are usually cheaper per square metre, because set-up and delivery costs are spread further.
- Choice of paving. Porcelain, sandstone, limestone and granite vary a lot in cost. Natural stone is often thicker and heavier. Porcelain is dense and hard, so cutting is slower and needs the right tools and blades.
- Ground conditions. Heavy clay, soft ground, old foundations, buried rubble or tree roots all add work. A site that needs a deeper dig or a stronger base costs more than a level, firm one.
- Existing surface. Lifting an old patio, concrete or tarmac takes time, and disposing of it costs money. Removing turf from a clean lawn is much simpler.
- Access. If everything has to be barrowed through the house or a narrow side passage, the job takes longer. A skip or grab lorry that cannot get close adds time and cost.
- Levels and drainage. A sloping garden may need retaining walls, steps or extra drainage. A flat site with an obvious fall is simpler.
- Shape and cutting. Curves, angles, circles and lots of corners mean more cutting, more waste and more skilled labour than a plain rectangle.
- Laying pattern. Random or mixed-size stone takes longer to lay well than a single-size format. Large-format porcelain slabs are heavy and need more care and sometimes extra hands.
- Bed and jointing method. A full mortar bed and a specialist jointing product cost more than a basic method, but they suit certain materials better.
- Extras. Steps, edging details, drainage channels, lighting cable ducts, raised borders and sealing all add to the total.
- Time of year and demand. Good installers are often booked well ahead in spring and summer.
Ways to keep the cost down
- Keep the shape simple. Straight edges and sizes that suit the paving format reduce cutting and waste.
- Choose the material with the job in mind. Do not pay for a premium product if a mid-range one looks right and performs well. Equally, do not cut corners on a material that needs careful handling.
- Reduce the area slightly. A patio that is a little smaller but well built is better than a larger one done on a tight budget.
- Clear the site yourself. Moving plant pots, furniture and small structures out of the way saves labour time.
- Do some of the simple work. If you are able, taking up turf or clearing an old shed base may save money. Agree this in advance, because the installer needs to work to correct levels.
- Be flexible on timing. Booking in a quieter period can help.
- Get the quote scope identical. When you compare quotes, make sure each includes the same area, material, depth of base and waste removal. A lower price often just means something is left out.
- Decide before work begins. Changing the layout, adding steps or swapping the material halfway through is one of the commonest reasons for a bill to grow.
What should be included in a quote
- [ ] Full address and the exact area to be paved, with a sketch or measurements
- [ ] Paving type, make, size, colour and finish, or a clear allowance if not yet chosen
- [ ] Excavation depth and how the spoil will be removed
- [ ] Sub-base material and thickness, and whether a membrane is used
- [ ] Laying bed and jointing method
- [ ] Edge restraint details
- [ ] Falls and drainage arrangements
- [ ] Treatment of any existing surface, including removal and disposal
- [ ] Steps, edging, drains or other extras, listed separately
- [ ] Delivery, skip hire and waste carriage
- [ ] Whether the price includes VAT, if the installer is VAT registered
- [ ] Start date, expected duration and payment schedule
- [ ] What happens if unexpected ground problems appear
- [ ] Guarantee terms in writing, and insurance cover
- [ ] Cleaning down and any sealing
Questions to ask a patio installer
- Can I see recent patios you have laid, ideally ones a few years old?
- How deep will the excavation be, and what will the base be made of?
- How will you deal with drainage and the fall away from the house?
- How will the finished level relate to the damp-proof course?
- Which jointing and bedding method do you recommend for this paving, and why?
- Who will be doing the work, you or subcontractors?
- What happens if you find poor ground, a buried drain or old foundations?
- What guarantee do you give, and what does it cover?
- How much of the price is for materials and how much for labour, so I can compare quotes fairly?
- Do you need payment up front for materials, and how is the rest staged?
How long it takes and what to expect
A small to medium patio is often a matter of several days. A large or awkward one, or one needing retaining walls or steps, can take a week or more. Weather matters, since heavy rain slows digging and can affect mortar and jointing.
Expect noise, dust and a fair amount of mess, with deliveries of stone, sand and cement, and a skip or spoil heap for a few days. The first stage, digging out and building the base, looks like a lot of effort for little visible change. The patio takes shape quickly once laying begins.
After finishing, jointing compounds need time to set before heavy use. Your installer should tell you when you can walk on the surface and when to put furniture back. Natural stone can vary in colour from slab to slab, which is normal, and porcelain should be kept clear of cement residue until it has been cleaned properly.
Signs a quote is too cheap or too expensive
Too cheap
- No mention of excavation depth, base material or waste removal
- A vague description such as "lay patio" with no detail on materials
- Pressure to pay a large sum up front or to start immediately
- No address, no insurance details, no written guarantee
- A base that sounds thin, or a plan to lay slabs on sand alone
- A much lower figure than others with no clear reason, such as a smaller area or lower grade of paving
Too expensive
- Large lump sums with no breakdown of materials, labour and extras
- Allowances for work your site does not need, such as deep excavation on firm, level ground
- Premium materials priced in when you asked for something simpler
- Extras charged at a high rate with no explanation
- A quote far above others for the same scope, with no obvious difference in specification
Use the prices on this page as a guide to what other homeowners have paid, then ask each installer to explain any large gap between their quote and the others.