What the job involves
Fitting one radiator, supplied and fitted, sounds simple, and often it is. The detail depends on whether you are replacing an existing radiator or adding a new one.
Like-for-like replacement. The heating engineer drains enough of the system to work safely, disconnects the old radiator and lifts it off its brackets. The new radiator goes on, the valves are reconnected, and the system is refilled, vented and checked for leaks. If the new radiator is the same size and the pipes and brackets line up, this is the quickest and cheapest version of the job.
Replacement with a different size. Pipe centres, bracket positions and valve tails often need altering. That means pipework adjustments, new brackets, and sometimes lifting floorboards or making good plaster.
A brand new radiator in a new position. This is a bigger job. New pipes have to be run from the nearest suitable point on the heating circuit, often under floors or through walls, then connected, flushed and balanced. Decorating afterwards is normally not included.
On a sealed system the engineer will also check the boiler pressure and top it up if needed. Many will recommend inhibitor to protect the system from corrosion, particularly if the water is dirty.
What affects the price
- The radiator itself. A basic single panel is far cheaper than a double convector, a tall designer model, a column radiator or a heated towel rail. Material and finish matter too. Stainless steel and special colours cost more than standard white steel.
- Size and heat output. Bigger radiators cost more to buy, are heavier to handle and may need stronger fixings. The right output depends on the room, so a small radiator in a large room will disappoint.
- Like-for-like or new position. Swapping one radiator for the same size is mostly labour for draining, fitting and refilling. Moving or adding one means new pipework, which adds materials and time.
- Pipe and valve condition. Old, corroded or painted-over valves may not reseal and often need replacing. Pipes that have been bent or weakened over the years add to the work.
- Access and floor type. Pipes under solid concrete floors are harder to deal with than pipes under floorboards. Fitted carpets, laminate and tiled floors all affect how easily pipes can be reached.
- System type and condition. A system with sludge in it may need a flush or a filter fitted. Draining a large system with many radiators takes longer than a small one.
- Number of radiators. Fitting several at once usually works out cheaper per radiator than separate visits, because the draining and refilling is done once.
- Making good. Filling holes, patching plaster or lifting and relaying flooring may be extra, depending on who does it.
- Location and demand. Hourly rates and call-out charges vary around the UK, and busy periods in the colder months can push prices up.
Ways to keep the cost down
- Match the size where you can. A radiator with the same dimensions and pipe centres as the old one avoids pipe alterations. Many suppliers list the measurements you need to match.
- Choose a plain, standard design. If you only want heat, a good-quality panel radiator does the job without the premium of a designer model.
- Bundle jobs. If you are replacing several radiators, adding a magnetic filter or having the system flushed, do it in one visit.
- Clear the area beforehand. Move furniture, lift rugs and take down curtains so the engineer is not working around them.
- Do the decorating yourself. If you are happy to paint around the new radiator afterwards, you avoid paying for it.
- Get the measurements right. Ordering the wrong size or pipe spacing is an expensive mistake. If you supply the radiator yourself, check with the engineer first, as some will not guarantee fittings they did not supply.
- Compare like with like. Get more than one written quote and make sure each covers the same radiator, valves and finishing.
What should be included in a quote
A proper quote for one radiator, supplied and fitted, should say clearly:
- [ ] The make, model, size and heat output of the radiator
- [ ] Whether it is a replacement or a new position, and any pipework involved
- [ ] Valves: thermostatic radiator valve and lockshield, and whether new ones are included
- [ ] Brackets and fixings suitable for your wall type
- [ ] Draining down, refilling, venting and checking for leaks
- [ ] Inhibitor added to the system, if appropriate
- [ ] Disposal of the old radiator
- [ ] Making good: what is included and what is not
- [ ] Whether VAT is included
- [ ] Call-out or minimum charges
- [ ] Start date, expected duration and payment terms
- [ ] Guarantee on both the radiator and the workmanship
Questions to ask a heating engineer
- Is the radiator the right output for the room, and how did you work that out?
- Will the existing pipes and valves be reused, and what condition are they in?
- Do you expect to find any problems, such as sludge or seized valves, and how would extra work be priced?
- Will you balance the system afterwards so the new radiator heats evenly?
- If you are working on or near the boiler, are you Gas Safe registered? Gas work must be done by someone who is.
- Who is responsible for making good plaster, paint or flooring?
- What guarantee do you give on your work, and what does the manufacturer cover?
- Can you give me a written quote before starting?
How long it takes and what to expect
A like-for-like replacement is usually a short job, often finished within a morning or part of a day. A new radiator on fresh pipework takes longer, and if floors have to come up it may stretch to a full day or more.
The heating will be off for part of that time while the system is drained and refilled, so pick a day when you can manage without it. The engineer will use dust sheets and a drip tray, but some water spillage is normal when a radiator comes off, and it is often dark and dirty if the system has not been flushed for years.
After the job, the radiator should heat evenly from top to bottom. If the top stays cool, air is probably trapped and it needs bleeding. If the bottom stays cool, there may be sludge. Check the valves and joints for weeping over the next day or two and tell the engineer if you see any.
Signs a quote is too cheap or too expensive
Too cheap
- No detail on the radiator model or size, or the valves
- No mention of draining, refilling, venting or inhibitor
- A price that only makes sense if the old pipework needs no changes at all, with no allowance for problems
- Vague guarantees or none
- Pressure to pay in full upfront or in cash with no paperwork
- A very low labour figure that suggests corners will be cut or extras added later
Too expensive
- A high price for a basic radiator with no explanation of what is driving it
- Large charges for pipework when you have asked for a like-for-like swap
- Vague allowances for extras with no breakdown
- Charges for work you have not asked for, such as a full system flush, with no evidence it is needed
- A figure well out of line with other written quotes for the same specification
If one quote stands out, high or low, ask the engineer to explain it. A good tradesperson will be happy to talk you through what is included. Compare the quote against the prices on this page to see how it sits with what other homeowners have paid.