What the job involves
Fitting a new shower covers a wide range of work, from swapping an existing unit like for like to building a walk-in wet area from scratch. A supply and fit job usually means the fitter provides the shower, enclosure or tray, fits it, connects the water and waste, and leaves it working and sealed.
A straightforward replacement means removing the old enclosure or valve, fitting the new one on the existing pipework, and re-sealing. A bigger job might involve taking out a bath to make space, moving pipes, fitting a new shower tray with a waste, boarding and tiling the walls, and wiring in an electric shower or extractor fan.
The type of shower matters too. An electric shower heats water itself and needs its own electrical supply. A mixer shower blends hot and cold from your plumbing. A power shower or pump adds pressure. Each has different needs from your water system, and the right choice depends on your pressure, your boiler or cylinder, and how much space you have.
The price on this page reflects what homeowners locally actually paid, but your own figure will depend on the points below.
What affects the price
- Type of shower. Electric showers are generally simpler to fit than mixer or digital showers, but they need a suitable circuit. Thermostatic mixers, concealed valves and digital controls take more fitting time and cost more to buy.
- Enclosure or wet room. A simple curtain or a standard framed enclosure is quicker than a large frameless glass screen, which needs careful measuring and handling. A full wet room needs tanking and a sloped floor, which adds labour and materials.
- Whether pipework is moving. Using the existing hot and cold supplies is cheapest. Relocating the shower means new pipe runs, lifting floors or chasing walls, and making good afterwards.
- Concealed or exposed plumbing. Hiding pipes and valves in the wall looks neater but means more opening up, more boarding and more finishing.
- Electrical work. A new electric shower often needs a dedicated cable and a protected circuit at the consumer unit. Electrical work in bathrooms is covered by Part P of the building regulations, so it should be done by a registered electrician or notified to building control.
- Water pressure and flow. Low pressure may mean a pump or a different type of shower. Poor flow from an old tank-fed system can add parts and labour.
- Wall and floor condition. Old tiles, damp boards or a weak floor must be dealt with before anything new goes in. Tiling or panelling the walls adds time and materials.
- Removal and waste. Taking out an old cubicle, bath or tiles and disposing of it takes time, and some fitters charge for the skip or tip trip.
- Access. Upstairs bathrooms, tight stairs and awkward layouts slow things down, especially with heavy glass or trays.
- Quality of products. Trays, valves and screens vary a lot in quality and finish. A cheaper unit that is hard to fit can cost more in labour than a better one that goes in smoothly.
- Your location and the fitter. Labour rates vary between regions, and between a sole trader and a larger firm with overheads.
Ways to keep the cost down
- Keep the shower where it is. Moving plumbing is one of the biggest extras. If your layout works, work with it.
- Choose a straightforward product. A standard-size tray and enclosure fit faster and are easier to replace later than made-to-measure items.
- Buy the shower yourself only if you are sure. Some fitters give a better overall deal supplying their own materials, and will stand behind the whole job. If you supply, check the fitter is happy with what you have chosen.
- Decide everything before work starts. Changing tiles, valve position or screen type halfway through costs time and money.
- Do the simple prep yourself. Clearing the room, removing accessories or taking out an old shower curtain rail can save a little, but agree this first. Leave anything involving plumbing, electrics or waterproofing to the professionals.
- Get several quotes on the same specification. Give each fitter the same brief so you compare like with like.
- Bundle the work. If you are also replacing the toilet, basin or floor, doing it all in one visit usually saves on repeat call-outs.
- Avoid rushing. Urgent jobs and cancelled slots are rarely cheap. Where you can, choose a quieter time.
What should be included in a quote
A good quote is itemised and written down. Check it covers:
- [ ] The exact shower, tray and enclosure, with make, model and size
- [ ] Who supplies what, including valves, waste, trap, seals and fixings
- [ ] Removal and disposal of the old shower and any waste
- [ ] Any pipework changes, and whether pipes are exposed or hidden
- [ ] Electrical work, who does it, and whether it will be certified or notified
- [ ] Wall preparation, boarding, tiling or panelling, and grout or sealant
- [ ] Floor work, such as levelling or tanking for a wet room
- [ ] Making good, including plaster, decorating or silicone finishing
- [ ] Whether VAT is included, if the fitter is VAT registered
- [ ] A start date, expected duration and payment terms
- [ ] Guarantee details for both workmanship and products
- [ ] How extra work will be priced if problems turn up, such as hidden damp or rot
Questions to ask a bathroom fitter
- Have you fitted this type of shower before, and can I see examples or speak to a recent customer?
- Will you check my water pressure and system before confirming the shower will work?
- Who is doing the electrical work, and will I get a certificate or confirmation it has been notified?
- Are you insured, and what happens if there is a leak after you have gone?
- What will you do if you find damp or damage once the old shower is removed?
- Will the job be done by you or by subcontractors?
- How do you protect the rest of the house, and who clears up?
- What deposit do you need, and when are stage payments due?
- Is there a waiting period before I can use the shower after sealing and tiling?
How long it takes and what to expect
A like-for-like replacement can often be done in a day. Fitting a new tray and enclosure takes longer, particularly if the walls need tiling, because adhesive, grout and sealant all need time to set. A full wet room or a job that involves moving pipework runs over several days and may need different trades on site.
Expect the water to be turned off for some of the time, so plan around that. The fitter will usually isolate the supply, strip out the old unit, check what is behind it, then install the new waste and pipework before fitting the tray, walls and screen. Sealant normally needs time to cure before you use the shower, and a good fitter will tell you how long.
Before they leave, run the shower with them. Check for leaks at the joints and waste, look at drainage speed, test the temperature control and make sure the door or screen opens and closes properly. Keep any manuals, guarantees and electrical paperwork somewhere safe.
Signs a quote is too cheap or too expensive
Too cheap
- The quote is a single line with no breakdown of materials or labour.
- It leaves out waste removal, sealing, making good or electrical certification.
- The fitter is vague about the product, or the brand is unknown.
- A large deposit is demanded up front, or payment is cash only with no paperwork.
- They say no checks are needed on pressure, walls or electrics.
- There is no mention of insurance or a guarantee.
Too expensive
- The figure is far above other quotes for the same specification, with no clear reason.
- Basic items such as waste, sealant and fixings are listed as costly extras.
- Labour looks inflated for a simple swap with no pipe changes.
- The fitter pushes unnecessary upgrades, such as a pump when your pressure is fine.
- A large contingency is added with no explanation of what it covers.
When a quote looks unusually high or low, ask the fitter to explain it. A good tradesperson can say exactly what you are paying for and why. Comparing their figure with the prices on this page will tell you whether it sits in a sensible range for your area.