What the job involves
A new tarmac driveway is built in layers, and most of the cost and most of the quality sit in the work you cannot see once it is finished. The surface is the last part of the job, not the first.
A typical installation starts with marking out the area and removing whatever is there now, whether that is grass, old concrete, block paving or a worn tarmac surface. The ground is then dug out to a depth that allows for a proper base. The exposed soil, known as the formation, is levelled and compacted. A geotextile membrane is sometimes laid on soft or clay ground to stop the base sinking into it.
Next comes the sub-base, usually crushed stone, spread in layers and compacted with a roller or vibrating plate. Edging is fitted along the sides, normally concrete-bedded kerbs or timber, which holds the tarmac in place and stops the edges crumbling. Then comes the tarmac itself, delivered hot and laid by hand or machine. Many drives get a binder course first and a finer wearing course on top. Domestic jobs often use a single layer, which is a perfectly reasonable choice where the drive only takes cars. The surface is rolled while still hot to compact it and leave a smooth, even finish.
Good installers also think about falls, meaning the gentle slope that carries rainwater away from the house and off the drive. Where the drive meets the road or pavement, the junction needs finishing neatly. If you cross a pavement, you will usually need a dropped kerb, which is arranged through the council and done by approved contractors.
What affects the price
No two drives cost the same, even at similar sizes. These are the things that move the price most:
- Area of the drive. More surface means more stone, more tarmac and more labour. Tarmac is bought by weight, so a large drive adds up quickly.
- Thickness and number of layers. A drive that will take heavy vehicles, vans or regular deliveries needs a deeper base and possibly two layers of tarmac. A light-use family drive can be built lighter.
- What is being removed. Lifting old concrete or block paving takes longer than stripping turf, and the waste is heavier and costs more to dispose of.
- Depth of dig and ground conditions. Soft, wet or clay soil often needs extra excavation and more sub-base. Tree roots add to the work.
- Access. If a lorry and roller cannot get close, material may have to be barrowed in by hand, which takes longer and needs more people.
- Levels and drainage. A sloping plot, retaining work, drainage channels or a soakaway all add labour and materials. Front gardens often need water directed to a planted area or a drain, so this is worth settling before work begins.
- Edging and finishing details. Concrete-bedded kerbs cost more than basic timber edging. Curves, steps and bell-mouths at the entrance take more time than straight runs.
- Dropped kerb. If you need one, the council application and the works to the pavement are usually separate from the drive itself.
- Tarmac type and finish. Standard black tarmac is the usual choice. Coloured or decorative finishes, or a resin-bound top layer, cost more.
- Timing and tarmac supply. Small areas can be awkward for suppliers, and an installer may have to cover delivery costs or minimum loads. Local demand, the time of year and how busy the firm is also play a part.
The prices on this page show what other homeowners paid for similar work, which is a better guide than a general average because it reflects local labour and material costs.
Ways to keep the cost down
- Keep the shape simple. Straight edges and a regular layout are quicker to lay than curves and awkward angles.
- Size the drive sensibly. Make it big enough for how you use it, but do not add area you will never park on.
- Clear the site yourself. Moving plant pots, bins, garden furniture and small structures saves time, as long as you agree it beforehand.
- Do not cut corners on the base. A thinner base saves money now and tends to cost far more when the surface sinks or cracks. Save elsewhere.
- Compare like with like. Get several written quotes with the same specification, so you are comparing the same depth, layers and edging.
- Be flexible on dates. Some installers offer better terms outside the busiest months, though tarmac needs dry weather.
- Combine jobs. If you also want drainage, a new path or a dropped kerb, ask whether doing it all at once is more efficient.
- Skip decorative extras unless you really want them. A standard finish done well looks good and lasts.
What should be included in a quote
A proper quote is written, itemised and specific. Check that it covers:
- [ ] Measured area of the drive, with a simple sketch or dimensions
- [ ] Removal of existing surface and disposal of waste, including who pays for the skip or tip fees
- [ ] Excavation depth and the type and depth of sub-base
- [ ] Membrane, if the ground needs one
- [ ] Edging type and where it will be fitted
- [ ] Number of tarmac layers and the type of tarmac
- [ ] Falls and drainage arrangements, and how rainwater will be dealt with
- [ ] Any dropped kerb work, or confirmation that it is excluded
- [ ] How the new drive will meet the road, garage, doorstep and any existing paths
- [ ] Start date, expected duration and how long before you can use the drive
- [ ] Payment terms, including any deposit and when the balance is due
- [ ] Insurance details and any guarantee, in writing
- [ ] VAT, whether it is included or not
Questions to ask a driveway installer
- Can I see recent drives you have laid, and can I speak to a customer from a year or two ago?
- How deep will you dig, and what will the base be made from?
- Will the drive be laid in one layer or two, and why?
- How will rainwater drain, and will the drive meet current rules for front gardens?
- Do I need planning permission or a dropped kerb, and who arranges it?
- Will you do the work yourselves or use subcontractors?
- What happens if you uncover soft ground or old foundations once you start?
- Do you have public liability insurance, and can I see the certificate?
- What guarantee do you give, and what does it cover?
- How will you protect my property, kerb and neighbouring drives during the work?
A reputable installer will answer these without fuss. Be wary of anyone who becomes vague when you ask about the base.
How long it takes and what to expect
A typical domestic drive often takes a few days from start to finish, depending on size, how much has to come out and the weather. Excavation and base preparation usually take the longest. The tarmac is often laid in a single visit once the base is ready.
Expect noise, a delivery lorry, a roller and a fair amount of dust and spoil in the early stages. You will not be able to use the drive during the work, so plan to park elsewhere. Let neighbours know in advance, particularly if the lorry will block the road for a while.
Fresh tarmac is hot and soft, and it needs time to firm up. Keep vehicles off it until the installer says it is ready, and avoid turning the steering wheel while stationary in the first weeks, as this can scuff the surface. In hot weather, tarmac stays softer for longer, and heavy items like bins on wheels or a side stand can leave marks. Light surface marks and a slightly uneven look in the first weeks are normal as the surface settles.
After that, keep the surface clear of oil and diesel spills, and keep the edges free from soil and weeds. Tarmac is low maintenance but not no maintenance.
Signs a quote is too cheap or too expensive
Too cheap
- No written breakdown, or a quote that is a single figure with no specification
- Pressure to pay in cash, or to pay most of the cost upfront
- Vague answers about base depth, or a promise to do it faster than anyone else
- Leftover tarmac offered from another job, with no mention of preparation
- No address, no insurance and no references
- Nothing said about drainage or edging
A low price usually means a thin base, poor compaction or skipped steps. The drive may look fine at first, then sink, crack or break at the edges within a few years.
Too expensive
- The quote is much higher than others for the same specification, with no clear reason
- Large allowances for extras that do not apply to your site
- Premium finishes or materials you did not ask for
- Vague line items such as "groundworks" with no detail
- Waste disposal charged at a level that does not match the amount of material removed
If one quote stands out in either direction, ask the installer to explain it line by line. Compare it against the prices on this page, and treat a clear, detailed explanation as a good sign.