How much does new lawn turfing cost?

Preparing ground and laying new turf. Prices below are for: a typical garden lawn.

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New lawn turfing prices near you

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What the job involves

Laying a new lawn from turf is mostly groundwork. The turf itself is the last and quickest part, and how well the ground is prepared decides whether the lawn looks good for years or turns patchy within a season.

A typical job runs in this order:

  • Clearing the area. Old grass, weeds and debris are stripped off, usually with a turf cutter, or the area is treated and dug over. Stones, rubble and roots are picked out.
  • Removing waste. Old turf and rubbish have to go somewhere, either in a skip or on a grab lorry. This is a heavier job than most people expect.
  • Loosening the soil. Compacted ground is dug, forked or rotavated so roots can get down. Builders' sites and well-trodden lawns often need a lot of work here.
  • Improving the soil. Poor or thin soil gets topsoil or conditioner added. Heavy clay or waterlogged ground may need drainage work or sand or grit worked in.
  • Levelling and grading. The surface is raked to a gentle, even fall, with no hollows where water will sit and no humps that the mower will scalp.
  • Firming and raking. The ground is trodden to remove air pockets, then raked to a fine, crumbly surface. A pre-turf feed is often applied.
  • Laying the turf. Rolls go down in a staggered, brick-like pattern, tight at the joints, with edges trimmed to fit borders, paths and curves.
  • Finishing. The turf is lightly firmed or rolled, watered in thoroughly, and you are given aftercare instructions.

What affects the price

  • Lawn size. More area means more turf, more soil preparation and more labour. Very small lawns can cost more per square metre because the fixed costs, such as delivery and skip hire, are spread over less ground.
  • Access. If everything has to be barrowed through the house or a narrow side passage, the job takes longer. A van or dumper that can get close to the lawn saves a good deal of time.
  • What is there now. Stripping an old, weedy lawn, or clearing a patch of bare, rubble-filled ground, costs more than laying onto ground that is already clean and level.
  • Waste removal. A big volume of old turf and soil means a larger skip or more lorry trips. Disposal charges vary between areas.
  • Soil condition. Good topsoil needs only light preparation. Compacted, stony or heavily clay soil needs more digging, and may need imported topsoil. The depth and amount of topsoil needed is often the biggest variable between quotes.
  • Levels and slopes. Sloping or uneven gardens need more shaping. Banks, steps or retaining edges add time, and sometimes extra materials.
  • Drainage. If water already lies on the lawn, the cause should be dealt with before turfing. That can mean anything from adding grit to laying land drains.
  • Type and quality of turf. Cheaper meadow-type turf is fine for many gardens. Hard-wearing mixes, shade mixes and finer ornamental turf cost more. Where the turf comes from and how fresh it is also matters.
  • Shape and edges. Curved beds, lots of corners and trees to work around mean more cutting and more waste turf than a plain rectangle.
  • Machinery. Using a mini digger, rotavator or turf cutter speeds the job up but adds to the cost of hire or the contractor's overheads.
  • Time of year and demand. Spring and early autumn are busy, and prices and waiting times can reflect that. Very hot or frozen spells can delay work.
  • Extras. New edging, irrigation, fencing repairs or border work are separate jobs, even when done on the same visit.

Ways to keep the cost down

  • Do the clearing yourself. If you are able, lifting the old lawn or clearing debris before the landscaper arrives can cut labour. Agree this first so they do not have to redo it.
  • Measure properly. Work out the real area, including awkward corners, so you can compare quotes on the same basis.
  • Match the turf to the use. A family lawn with a dog and a football needs something tougher. A rarely used front lawn does not need a premium mix.
  • Keep good soil. If your existing topsoil is decent, ask whether it can be improved and reused instead of replaced.
  • Make access easy. Clear side passages and leave room for a delivery and skip. Time spent moving things is time you pay for.
  • Be flexible on timing. Booking outside the busiest weeks can help, as long as the weather allows turf to be laid.
  • Bundle jobs. If you are also having edging, paths or fencing done, doing them together can save on repeat visits.
  • Compare like with like. A low quote that skips soil preparation is not a saving. Ask each firm to price the same specification.
  • Look after it afterwards. Watering properly in the first weeks avoids paying to replace dried-out turf.

What should be included in a quote

  • [ ] The measured area and how it was measured
  • [ ] What will be done to the existing lawn or ground, and who removes it
  • [ ] Waste removal, including skip or lorry costs
  • [ ] Soil preparation: digging, rotavating, levelling and raking
  • [ ] Topsoil or soil improver, with the quantity and depth stated
  • [ ] Any drainage or levelling work, or a clear note that none is included
  • [ ] Turf type and grade, and where it is sourced
  • [ ] Pre-turf feed or fertiliser if used
  • [ ] Edge trimming and finishing
  • [ ] Delivery and any access or parking charges
  • [ ] Whether VAT applies
  • [ ] Start date, expected duration and payment terms
  • [ ] Aftercare advice, and what happens if turf fails to take
  • [ ] Public liability insurance details

Questions to ask a landscaper

  • How will you prepare the ground, and will you test or assess the soil first?
  • Do you expect to need extra topsoil, and how will you decide how much?
  • What type of turf do you recommend for how we use the garden, and why?
  • Where does the turf come from, and how soon after cutting will it be laid?
  • How will you deal with the slope, low spots or damp areas?
  • Who removes the old lawn and rubbish, and where does it go?
  • What happens if the weather turns before or during the job?
  • When can we walk on the lawn, and when should it first be mown?
  • What aftercare watering do you advise?
  • Can you show examples of lawns you have laid, and are you insured?

How long it takes and what to expect

For an average garden lawn, the work is often done in a few days on site. A small lawn with easy access can be quicker, and a large or awkward one will take longer. Clearing and soil preparation usually take longer than laying the turf itself. Heavy rain, frost or very dry weather can all push the schedule back.

Turf is a fresh product and should be laid soon after it arrives, so the ground has to be ready before delivery. A good landscaper will not leave stacked rolls sitting in the sun.

After laying, the lawn needs regular, thorough watering so that the roots knit into the soil below. Keep off it as much as possible until it has rooted, which you can check by gently lifting a corner. The first cut should be a light one, with the mower set high. Some shrinkage at the joins or slight yellowing at first is common and usually settles if watering is kept up.

Signs a quote is too cheap or too expensive

Possibly too cheap:

  • No mention of soil preparation, or a promise to lay straight onto the old surface
  • No allowance for waste removal
  • Vague wording on turf quality, with no type or source given
  • A price well below the others with no explanation
  • Pressure to pay a large amount upfront in cash
  • No insurance and no address or references

Possibly too expensive:

  • Large topsoil quantities with no explanation of why they are needed
  • Drainage or major groundwork included when your lawn does not show signs of needing it
  • Premium turf specified for a lawn that will see ordinary use
  • A lump sum with no breakdown, so you cannot see where the money goes
  • Extras bundled in that you did not ask for

If a quote is far from the rest, ask the firm to walk you through it. A good contractor can explain every line. Comparing your quote with the prices on this page also helps show whether it sits within the range of what other homeowners paid.

Questions about new lawn turfing costs

When is the best time of year to lay a new lawn?

Early autumn and spring are usually best, as the soil is workable and rain helps the turf root. You can lay turf at other times, but summer needs much more watering and frozen or waterlogged ground should be avoided.

Can I lay turf over my old lawn?

It is not a good idea. The old grass and weeds rot underneath, the new turf struggles to root, and the surface ends up uneven. Stripping the old lawn and preparing the soil gives a much better result.

How soon can I walk on a new turf lawn?

Keep off it as much as you can until the turf has rooted, which usually takes a couple of weeks or so depending on weather. Lift a corner gently to check for new roots before regular use.

Is turf or seed the better option?

Turf gives you a usable lawn far sooner and is less likely to be washed or eaten away, but it costs more to buy. Seed is cheaper but takes longer to establish and needs more patience and care.

Why has my new turf gone brown or developed gaps?

The usual cause is not enough water in the first weeks, followed by poor soil contact or turf that sat rolled up for too long before laying. Water deeply, keep traffic off it, and speak to your landscaper if gaps appear soon after laying.

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Prices are what people reported paying in the last 3 years, shown rounded. They're a guide, not a quote. How our prices work

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