What the job involves
Worktop replacement means taking out the existing kitchen worktops and fitting new ones on the same cabinets. For most homeowners the scope is supply and fit: the fitter measures up, the worktop is ordered or made, the old one is removed, and the new one is cut, fitted, sealed and finished.
The work usually includes disconnecting and refitting the sink, tap and hob, cutting the openings for them, forming joints at corners, and sealing the edges against walls. Some materials need a template made on site before anything is cut. That applies to stone, quartz and most solid surface worktops, and to any kitchen where the walls are far from square.
The cabinets underneath stay in place, so the job depends on their condition. Level, sound units make for a simple fit. Sagging, damaged or badly aligned units need attention first, and that adds time.
What affects the price
- Material. This is the biggest factor. Laminate is generally the most affordable, solid wood sits in the middle, and quartz, granite and solid surface are at the upper end. Compact laminate and specialist finishes vary widely.
- Total length and layout. More metres of worktop means more material and more fitting time. An L-shaped or U-shaped kitchen needs more joints than a single straight run.
- Joints and cuts. Mitred corners, breakfast bars, curved ends and angled walls take more skill and time than straight cuts.
- Sink and hob cut-outs. Undermounted sinks, flush hobs, drainer grooves and extra cut-outs all add labour. Stone and quartz fabrication is more specialised than cutting laminate or timber.
- Templating and fabrication. Made-to-measure worktops need a site visit before manufacture and a second visit to fit. That is reflected in the price, along with the lead time.
- Thickness and edge profile. Thicker slabs and decorative edges cost more to produce and are heavier to handle.
- Upstands and splashbacks. Matching upstands, full-height splashbacks and window sills add material and fitting time.
- Removing the old worktop. Some are simply screwed down. Others are glued, tiled into, or built in around appliances, which makes removal slower. Disposal is another cost.
- Plumbing, gas and electrics. Disconnecting and reconnecting taps, dishwashers and waste pipes is normally part of the job. Moving a gas hob must be done by a Gas Safe registered engineer. Electrical changes, such as moving sockets or a hob supply, may fall under Part P, so they should be carried out by a competent registered electrician.
- Access and site conditions. Heavy stone slabs need to be carried through the house. Upper floors, narrow hallways and no parking nearby all add effort.
- Wall and floor condition. Uneven or out-of-square walls mean extra scribing and shaping. Tiles that must be removed or repaired behind the old worktop add further work.
- Location and demand. Fitter rates and fabrication costs differ between regions, and good fitters are often booked well ahead.
Ways to keep the cost down
- Choose the material with care. A good laminate or solid wood worktop can look excellent. Stone and quartz are worth it if you value their durability, but they are rarely the cheapest route.
- Keep the layout simple. Fewer joints, standard depths and straight runs cost less to fit than complicated shapes.
- Reuse the sink and hob where you can. A new sink or hob with a different cut-out size means extra work. Keeping the existing ones, or choosing replacements that match the current openings, helps.
- Skip decorative edges. A plain, square or lightly rounded edge is cheaper than a bespoke profile.
- Get the cabinets right first. Fix loose or uneven units before the worktop goes on, rather than paying for a fitter to compensate.
- Measure up, but let the fitter check. Having a rough idea of lengths helps you compare quotes. Final measurements should still come from the person fitting.
- Compare like with like. Get several quotes that cover the same material, cut-outs, removal and finishing, so the differences are clear.
- Think about supplying the material yourself. Some fitters will fit worktops you have bought, but many will not guarantee the material, and a mistake in ordering can cost more than you saved. Ask first.
What should be included in a quote
Use this as a checklist when comparing quotes:
- [ ] The worktop material, brand or range, colour, thickness and edge profile
- [ ] Total length and a simple sketch or description of the layout
- [ ] Whether the price covers supply, templating, fabrication and fitting
- [ ] Removal and disposal of the old worktops
- [ ] Sink and hob cut-outs, including any drainer grooves or tap holes
- [ ] Disconnecting and reconnecting the sink, tap, dishwasher and waste
- [ ] Who deals with the gas and electrical side, and their registration
- [ ] Upstands, splashbacks and window sills, stated clearly as included or not
- [ ] Joint type and how joints will be sealed
- [ ] Sealing, oiling or finishing of the surface and edges
- [ ] Making good around walls, such as sealant and scribing
- [ ] Lead time, expected start date and number of visits
- [ ] Deposit, payment schedule and what happens if measurements change
- [ ] Guarantee on the fitting and on the material
- [ ] Whether VAT is included
Questions to ask a kitchen fitter
- Can you show me recent worktop installations in the same material?
- Will you template the kitchen yourselves, or rely on my measurements?
- What happens if the new worktop does not fit because of a measuring error?
- Who handles the plumbing and any gas or electrical work, and are they registered?
- What will you do if you find damp, rot or damaged cabinets once the old worktop is off?
- Will the kitchen be usable during the work, and for how long will the sink and hob be out?
- How will joints be positioned and sealed, particularly near the sink?
- What care does the worktop need, and does the guarantee depend on it?
- Is the price fixed, and what could cause it to change?
How long it takes and what to expect
A straightforward laminate or timber replacement is often completed in a day or two, as the fitter can cut to measurements taken on site. Stone, quartz and solid surface take longer overall. There is a template visit, then a wait while the worktop is made, and then a fitting day. That wait is often a matter of weeks, so plan around it.
On the day, expect the kitchen to be emptied along the worktop areas. Clear the units, remove small appliances and cover floors if you can. The old worktop comes out, the sink and hob are disconnected, and the cabinets are checked for level. The new worktop is then fitted, cut-outs are made, joints are sealed and the plumbing is reconnected. Expect noise and dust, particularly when cutting.
There will be sealant to cure and, for solid wood, oil to dry. Follow the fitter's advice before using the sink heavily or putting hot pans down. Take a careful look at joints, edges and sealant before the fitter leaves and raise any concerns straight away.
Signs a quote is too cheap or too expensive
Too cheap
- The material is not named, or the description is vague.
- Removal, disposal, cut-outs or reconnecting plumbing are missing.
- There is no site measure or template for a made-to-measure worktop.
- The fitter asks for a large payment upfront and is vague about dates.
- No guarantee is offered, or the fitter dismisses questions about it.
- A gas or electrical job is offered without any mention of registered tradespeople.
Too expensive
- The quote is a single lump sum with no breakdown of material and labour.
- The material is priced well above what the same product costs from the supplier, with no explanation.
- Extras are listed that you do not need or did not ask for.
- Simple work is described as complicated, without anything specific to explain it.
- The fitter will not explain how the price was worked out.
Compare any quote against the real prices on this page, and ask the fitter to explain any large gap, high or low. A good fitter will be happy to walk you through the figures.